I just purchased the Proline Tuber chassis from tcscrawler.com. First, let me begin by saying that I was thoroughly impressed with TCS. Not only were they the least expensive, but they also delivered the chassis too me freaky fast (they make the Jimmie John's drivers look slow). As far as the chassis goes, I have the following to report:
The chassis is a bolt-on style body, which means that you cannot remove it by merely pulling some cotter pins. This could be good or bad. If you want to make adjustments to you motor, transmission, drive shafts, and/or shocks, the body is in the way. Most likely, you will have to unbolt the entire body in order to get to these areas to upgrade or work on them. However, if you don't make adjustments, repairs, or upgrades very often, this is a great body as it remains secure to the stock Axial chassis.
Putting the tuber onto the Axial chassis was not too difficult. The instructions were not the clearest that I have seen (they could have done a much better job), but I was able to figure it out on my own - 4 small screws screw through the tuber and into the top holes on the Axial chassis (the holes near where the shocks screw in).
Trying to find out how to put the electronics in was a pain in the rear end.
First of all, the battery cover was just big enough to fit my Duratrax 6-pack battery bar; there was no additional room for any wires. I guess this is good because it does not allow the battery pack to move around during crawling. However, I think I would have rather had a Velcro strap secure the battery pack and have a little more room under the cover. There are 2 wells under the cover. I assume that these are for the electronic speed control (ESC) and the radio receiver. The problem was that the front well was not large enough for both the ESC and the receiver, and the rear well was too far away from the steering servo. In fact, if you want to use the rear well, you will have to get (or make) some sort of extension for the wires..jpg)
After some frustration, and multiple attempts, I was finally able to use the font well for my ESC and a side trough (a low point on both sides of the battery compartment) to hold my receiver (I used a piece of 2-sided tape to keep it attached). I then used the other trough, and another piece of 2-sided tape to mount my on/off switch.As for the drive, so far I am impressed. I have not had any more issues with my tires rubbing on my crawler's body during articulation (like they did not my stock Axial body). I also really enjoy the look of the tuber, and one additional perk--it comes with two styles of front bumpers, which can be switched out by simply removing two cotter pins.
The only issue I have had with the tuber (other than the setup) is that it is too heavy for the super soft Axial springs (red) that I have on my shocks. Because of its weight, and because of torque twist, the tuber always leans to the left.
As I have more time to run the tuber, I will be able to report on its durability later.
Juice
Juice,
ReplyDeleteGlad to hear you got your new body. I should have taken a little more time to explain how I use mine. The looks and the battery access is the reason I went with this body (before I used my front axle mount battery). I think the difference between my setup and yours is that I am running a different speed control, receiver and servo. The HiTech ultra 645 server that I run will reach from the front axle to the rear of the body with extra wire to spare. In your case they do make an extension for the servo if you need I can send or make you one. Before I got my DNA digg I had my speed control in the box located closest to the front of the box and the receiver in the space near the back. I had to modify the back box a little to fit my old receiver but it was easy and did not change the look.
My current setup was a little more difficult. After I installed my DNA "Digg" I had to turn my motor around. To do this I had to remove the front "storage" box. Now I have the Tekin FX-R ESC mounted in the back box (plenty of room to spare and I have the receiver mounted up unter the back of the body (under the car, just behind the outside of the back storage box). It is working great. I can still mount my "stick" style battery for use when my front axle battery goes dead.
If I were you I would move your receiver from the side to the rear of the machine (underneath side of the body).
As for your springs...
(Until you get after market shocks)
Here is what I did with mine; Take the external springs off, go to the hardware store and get two heavier springs and two medium springs. Put one heavy spring in the left front shock (driver front) and one heavy spring in the right rear (passenger rear). Put the medium springs in the two remaining shocks. (you will enjoy the internal spring setup tons more). Before you put your shocks back together put a 60 weight oil in them. This will help you a ton. The reason for the two different springs is to help with the "torque flex" (torque roll). Where we are running a single motor machine we have the inconvenience of "torque flex" This is when you apply torque (drive..lol) the torque will take away from the articulation.
Access to drive components...
The access is a little more difficult on this body but unless you wan to keep the original body you will have this with any body you put on. I have ran the original (of course), the "Edge" and now the "Tuber". Out of all this the "Tuber" is by far the best. To access the motor, drive train, etc. is really simple. Pull the skid plate (four screws) and everything will drop out. You then have as much ascess as you need.
Your receiver...
After talking last night I did some more research and found that you need to do a couple steps. As we discussed before you need to reprogram you Radio to your ESC. If it still does not work then "Axial" needs to replace your speed control or your Radio manufacturer needs to replace there parts. This is defiantly communication problem. I have experienced this on two of my speed controls (will not mention the product make).